Born and bred in Istanbul, and later developing a professional interest in it, I have found that it is never quite possible to discover the city to its full extent. Being a city of immigrants reflecting the Ottoman and Republican legacies, most districts, and sometimes even different streets in the same district, have certain qualities that are distinguishable and unique. These demographic, economic, social and sometimes political differences have also affected the city’s culinary map. Here you will find a variety of Istanbul’s tastes, which I have worked hard for them to be local, affordable and of quality, served with a hint of local history. While doing so I will also include some cities in the greater Istanbul area, including Turkey’s neighbours.

I was inspired to start a “taste book” (çeşninȃme is an attempt in Ottoman Turkish) following the blog of two foreign journalists in Istanbul whom later I have met with. Observing it was mainly the locals -like me- who were interested in the idea, I wanted to create something geared more towards them that can also benefit the travellers in this city – hence the bilingualism. Despite many strong points, the explanation of a beef wrap from Turkey’s south (Tantuni) with Tex-Mex to a Turkish audience did not resonate well in my mind. I wanted to tell about food in its historical context. Also I think a trip for food is never complete with a sense of history or artifacts that you can actually see in the vicinity. Whether it is a mosque, tombstone, mansion or an inscription on a monument or a fountain, I think food will make sense with the surroundings.

As my share of tribute to this city and its people, I want to tell about different culinary and historical encounters I have made during my travels in Istanbul. I have three criteria: I will be telling stories of localized places which make affordable (if not cheap) and quality food. If you are looking for the best truffle pizza in town, you are in the wrong place, unless it is made with rare local mushrooms in a historical district such as Eminönü and is affordable. I will also use my training in history to give you an insight on the artefacts that you see whilst strolling on a full and hopefully happy stomach.

I am glad to realize an idea which has been on my mind for a very long time. I would like to thank my friends and family who have vested trust in me to visit most of these places and also have encouraged me to start this blog. In a ruthless age of ‘gentrification’ and under a new tenant law, historical food places are finding it hard to survive. I also would like to dedicate this blog to them to see if we can do something to help them serve food as they have for many generations.

Afiyet olsun (Bon appetite),

PS: The featured picture is a honey-clotted cream combination from Boris’in Yeri, a historic Bulgarian-origin breakfast stop in Kumkapı, soon to appear on the blog.

E. Erdem Aydın

March 2016